So I’ve just installed the Hansshow Power Tailgate (v3) in my RHD Tesla Model 3 SR+. This kit has multiple great installation videos online – however these don’t quite match the new v3 kit from Hansshow, and there are differences with the RHD that the instructions from USA/China don’t cover.
This is an early preview of the page – more photos and videos still to be added.
INTRO
The Product: Model 3 power Trunk and Frunk from Hansshow(currently US$499)
I originally saw the kits on Reddit/Facebook and loved the idea of making the Model 3 a bit more premium, especially with the way the boot lid takes a decent push to lock closed. Before purchasing the kit, I looked at the instructions and watched a few YouTube Vids. The instructions really aren’t great, but this video was great:
Install Video: Tesla Model 3 – Hansshow Power Trunk Liftgate Installation and Review!!! from Because Tesla
That video, and every other video I could find, were based on the original v1 kit. It appears that the kit changed at some point, resulting in some of the wiring connections differing. There are now v3 instructions from the manufacturer, but they still leave a lot to be desired.
Instructions: Tesla Model 3 electric tailgate installation instructions – Version 3.0
I’m not going to re-explain everything in the Video from Because Tesla, but I will outline everywhere that the new kit and/or the RHD model differ from the video.
Difference 1. Cable through the tube
The cables that need to run to the tailgate in the v3 kit are different to the v1 kit. The only wire you need to run into the tailgate now is the three-core cable to the tailgate button. To get this though the tube, you de-pin the connector, pull it through, then re-pin it:
 | This is the tailgate switch connector. Carefully remove the yellow part. |
 | Remove the pins by angling them up, then out. The pins will now be free of the connector body. Attach them to the pull wire with electrical tape. |
 | Pull the cable through the tube. |
 | Put the pins back into the connector. Reinsert the yellow tab to lock the pins in place. |
In the v1 kit, multiple wires are run into the trunk. In the v3 kit, there is a new “tailgate signal wire”, which plugs into a connector on top of the rear deck.
Difference 2. Tailgate Signal Wire
So this is the new wire. I’m guessing Hansshow switched to the new design because it doesn’t require tapping into wires, so it’s more removable later on. But here’s the thing: you need to disassemble half of the rear of the car to get to the connector in question (see exhibit 1 below):
The manufacturer instructions kinda show what you need to do, but it’s really unclear, and definitely doesn’t convey how much work is involved. Those instructions also seem to show some steps that aren’t relevant to the v3 kit. Maybe I got something wrong – but there are no wires left, and the kit works. Or maybe there’s an easier way – if you know of it, please message me. (This was at least 4 hours work, but now I know what to do I could probably do it in 60-90 minutes.)
| 1. Make sure you have enough room to open the tailgate and both rear doors. |
| 2. Lay down the rear seats. |
3. Remove the bolsters beside the rear seats: |
4. Remove the side rail trim between the tops of the B pillar and C pillar: |
5. Remove the C-pillar upper trim: |
6. Remove the C-pillar rear trim: |
7. Remove the parcel shelf: (Images above courtesy of the Tesla Model 3 Service Manual, copyright Tesla.) |
8. Now that you have the parcel shelf out, identify the stock connector on the right hand side, and run the new connector up through the small hole from the boot/trunk: |
9. Disconnect the stock connector, and insert the new connector: |
| 10. Use a zip-tie to tie down the New Connector, so it doesn’t obstruct the parcel shelf. (Sorry, no photo of this bit.) |
| 11. Reverse all the steps from 7 back to 2, to reassemble the vehicle. |
Difference 3. Power
The instructions from Hansshow tell you to run power to the front right side. Unfortunately the instructions have a really low-res photo, so it’s completely unclear where that connections is meant to go to.
There have been a few sources identified by Ingineerix on YouTube/Reddit (LINK). I checked to see if the VCLEFT connector was usable, but it appears to already be populated in my RHD Model 3. (The online conjecture is that this is for a future trailer connector.)
EDIT: Since installing, I found out there’s meant to be a bolt where you can grab 12V from. See the second photo from the LINK here. I think this is what Hansshow were referring to – but the 160pixel photo isn’t really clear.
Ultimately, I was left with two options:
- The +12V Battery at the front; or
- The DC-DC converter on the HV battery penthouse.
To avoid the issue with the “12V Battery Needs Service” error, I connected the B+ wire to the output of the DC/DC converter, and I connected the GND wire to a screw in the boot/trunk.
Photos coming soon…
CONCLUSIONS
So after reassembling everything, I’m happy with the results. The Kit works beautifully with any of the controls from the vehicle, although occasionally I need to unlock/relock the vehicle to get it working with the App.
Yendor Makes 